At least one historical account that I have managed to translate has it that commanding height of Morella was chosen many centuries ago as a frontier fortress. and almost 2,500 metres of battlements were built around the town. Despite Morella's obvious dependence on tourism, little (if any) thought has been given to access.

The area of the old city of Morella consists of a series of steep radial streets and concentric roads that link them ...it is difficult to get lost. Great ramparts surround the lower perimeter and there are but a few gates or 'Portals' that allow any kind of access into the place. Space inside the walls is limited, streets narrow and the method of access is unclear from the outset. I spoke to a number of people who had the same experience as me …they found themselves driving around and around …not really sure what to do. It was obvious that there was a problem with the sheer number of vehicles that might want to drive around the place and I had every sympathy with the city taking measures to prevent the place getting grid locked every day …but you do not drive bamboo slivers under the fingernails of the hand that feeds you.

I can think of a few places, in England, faced with the same problem and they provide out-of-town car parks and a bus service that enables you to go and see anything you want. There's an obvious money-making opportunity just waiting for the right entrepreneur …but I didn't even see one taxi in all the time I was there.